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Ashkenazi feasting at Harry Morgan’s

2009 October 7
by Zoe Strimpel

Just had dinner at Harry Morgan’s in St John’s Wood, NW8. It’s a Jewish deli and restaurant, apparently beloved of everyone from Rachel Stevens who is “always in here” to, erm, Madonna? Anyway, as a sinful pork-devouring Jew myself, I felt that the least I could do was offer myself up to the gods of lokshen, chicken soup and chopped liver. It was pure Ashkenazi feasting – I am full of simple clunky comforting food. But as someone lucky enough to eat out at the very best, most cutting edge restaurants in London for work, I confess that the food – however comforting – was not quite on par with, say, the secular sector. Take the foie gras stuffed quail I had yesterday at Joel Robuchon- that was Shakespeare while this was…Danielle Steele.

But do you know what? I am typing this with a smile on my face, and a great big doggy bag of goulash and meat-stuffed cabbage in the fridge. Oy va voy. What next- trading my favourite pork belly for pickled herring?

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